After
graduating from Morehouse College, I embarked on a Euro trip, intended to broaden
my burgeoning worldview and celebrate four years of house parties and switching
majors. With globalization at an all time high and post-college
employment at an all time low, I felt I had nothing to lose and everything to
gain. A six country tour, I cooked out at the
Eiffel, trekked the Swiss Alps, (over) indulged in meat and beer at a traditional
German dining hall, enjoyed gondola rides along the alluring Venetian canals, went
wine tasting in an antiquated village, and experienced the ‘coffee shops’ and eccentricism of Amsterdam. Returning to the States, 21 years old with a college degree, and six new countries ‘under my belt,’ I was euphorically grateful. After all, I
had seen more countries in one summer than both my parents had so far in their
lifetimes. World traveler, I thought.
I even created a twitter account; in the bio section I wrote something glib
like ‘global citizen.’ No, I hadn’t seen most of the world yet, but fresh
outta college I’d seen over 10 countries, several islands, and numerous American States. I was on my way towards living a lifestyle of travel...at least that’s
what I thought.
Incongnegro,
a black and white graphic novel written by Mat Johnson, tells the story of Zane
Pinchback, a reporter for a black newspaper in the early 1930s New York City. A
light skin brother able to ‘pass’ as a white man, Zane built his career
investigating lynchings, while working totally undercover (or ‘Incognegro’).
Touring
and traveling are not equivalent. The former connotes consumerism while the later creates opportunities for cross-cultural immersion.
One, a product of capitalism, and the other, a motor of multiculturalism,
should not be confused. Tourism induces us to buy clothing that represents culture; traveling invites us to experience the culture that the clothes
represent.
Tourism enables us to walk the land; traveling encourages us to walk in
the shoes of those whose land it is. Tourism concerns us with taking countless
pictures; traveling challenges us to touch many people. While tourism
exudes exorbitant prices and exclusive retreats, traveling involves everyday people. Simply put, tourism is a capitalist expenditure while traveling is a
cultural exchange.
How do we break free from the chains of consumerism
and transform from tourists to travelers?
Aware that traveling takes myriad forms (business,
vacation, educational, etc.), it’s not my intention to promote a narrow model
of global mobility. Instead, I wish to explore the ways in which some people (myself included) travel physically but rarely psychologically. Considering the
power of the human brain, we must avoid the tendency to emphasize physical
distance over psychological depth. We must ask ourselves, if our bodies move
but our brains don’t, did we really travel? For example, you can be in the
library physically but if your mind is
at the party you skipped in order to study, then you might as well be doing the
dougie. Our mind, not our matter, primarily determines where we are and thus,
what we experience. This, in part, explains how two people in the same environment
can, and tend to, experience it differently.
your body |
your mind |
As I returned to the States, family and friends, excited of my arrival, flooded me with questions. “How was it?” “Did you see the Taj?” “Did you ride an elephant?” Happy to be home but hesitant to routinely respond—“It was cool; I had fun”—I thought deeply about the nature of these questions. No, I didn’t see the Taj. Not because I didn’t care too, it wasn’t in my budget and, perhaps more importantly, I didn’t see it as a necessity. No, I didn’t ride an elephant. I guess I just never got around too it (but I learned to ride a Motorcycle). As I reflected on my loved ones’ questions, I asked myself: Is this the essence of traveling? A half-day tour to the Taj (a mega mausoleum) or a half hour ride on an exotic animal?
A fledgling yogi, thrilled to live in the birthplace
of yogic philosophy, I planned to practice regularly. However, between my hectic schedule and pledge to ‘go with the flow,’ I didn’t do yoga, at all. No Taj. No
elephants. No yoga. To those conditioned by the tourist industrial complex, my
experience was incomplete. But we must ask, is it reasonable to reduce a three-month
internship to three ‘adventurous’ activities? No, I didn’t see the Taj, but I
visited Nalanda, arguably the oldest university in the world. No, I didn’t ride
an elephant, but I rode several overnight trains (nasty toilet n’ all!). And
no, I didn’t do yoga, at least not physically. Still, I was stretched
spiritually, inspired intellectually, and challenged culturally—pushing me off my mattress of comfort onto the mat of adventure and exploration. I perspired; I left drained yet energized. I breathed. Perhaps I never stopped practicing: the land my 'mat' and Mama India my instructor. Namaste.
A pic isn't worth a thousand people |
Not an attempt to abase tourism and its subscribers, this post is an all too brief investigation of the stark differences between tourism (primarily sight-seeing) and traveling (ideally cultural immersion). Tourists may leave their homes physically but rarely mentally. Travelers must do both, not only packing bags but simultaneously leaving 'baggage' behind—the baggage of American exceptionalism and western arrogance, the baggage of imperialist ideologies and colonial imaginations, the baggage of patriarchy and white supremacy, the baggage of misguided missiology and 'post-colonial' Christianization, and the baggage of religious intolerance and Islamophobia. If this ‘lethal luggage’ is not left behind, then I’m afraid you are neither touring nor traveling, you, my friend, are terrorizing! (See my last blog post).
Living in microcosmic ‘Americas’ abroad is not
traveling. More than its physical element, traveling entails a mental movement, not a simple relocation of one's home
and comfort zone. Tourism, in this context, is an
illusion. Sadly, the tourist industrial complex masquerades its souvenirs, trinkets,
and so-called cultural artifacts as evidence for traveling. And perhaps, even
more unfortunately, tourists are satisfied with this unreasonable exchange.
“You give us your currency and we’ll give you our culture!"
Considering how much I stood out physically, the
title of this post is ostensibly ironic. Zane, a light skin brother, was
able to ‘pass,’ in a hostile culture, due to his complexion. I didn’t have this
‘luxury’ (don’t get me wrong, I’m glad to be a chocolate brother). From my ethnic hairstyle to
my ‘Jeeerzzeey’ accent, I was an identifiable foreigner. However, the
more time I spent on the land and with the people, the more I sensed a radical
shift, not necessarily in the ways others viewed me, but in the way I saw myself. I sensed myself transforming, from an
outsider to an outside-insider, from a tourist to a
traveler. In hindsight, my trip to Europe and my journey throughout India were categorically different. As I continue to travel, it's my hope not to be a cultural Zebra, camouflaged within a cross-cultural context, yet tattooed with nationalist stripes of superiority and ignorance. Amidst the cold sea of consumerism and rising tide of globalization, I aspire to maneuver more like Zane: (culturally) incognegro, not just in appearance, but in actuality.
Afterword
Although
this will be my last post for this blog, i.e. 'Summer (In)dia,' it will not be my last blog post. I
want to thank everyone who read, reflected, responded, and/or reposted. Your
activity, not mine, enlivens the literary experience. I appreciate both the
compliments and critique, which, dovetailing into a dynamic duo, pushes me beyond my
own intellectual insecurities and ignorance.
I
am currently in the process of creating a new blog, which will exist here, www.nylefort.blogspot.com, as well
as on my website www.nylefort.com. Unsure
of the title but certain of several themes, I hope you will continue this
journey with me. For me, literature is liberation. I
invite you to join me on this long walk towards freedom.